Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.
The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.
“I am totally surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.
It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.
Elena Voss is a seasoned journalist and editor with over a decade of experience in digital media, specializing in global affairs and tech trends.